The change of seasons kindles my inner food & wine critic. Maybe it’s the stacks of red apples in their pre-pie à la mode mode; it may be thoughts of the upcoming Oktoberfest with sizzling wursts (and mustards and kraut); or it may visions of the soon-to-be harvested ripe grapes bound for oak casks, to await a future incarnation. A good food or wine book is its own kind of feast (only with fewer calories).